6.14.2005

Bang Bang

There is a really rather pathetic gathering transpiring every night around 7 in the main lounge. Students from ALI, the international law program, and CASA, all stagger forth from a day of classes, travels, and street haggling, before a 72 inch plasma screen television.

To watch Seinfeld, and the Simpsons, with Arabic subtitles. Then Bollywood videos on MTV India. We get a ridiculous number of channels off satellite.

And laugh. Like it's the funniest thing they've ever seen.

But it didn't start that way. We meekly huddled before the television, exhausted of episodes of shows we'd seen a million times, now merely regurgitated before us via satellite TV in the Middle East. But one night, someone began laughing. And then we all did. There was no talking, just forty plus people, in hysterics. And then turning to one another, "this is totally not funny, at all...I can't believe I am laughing at the Simpsons...we are such losers right now." But, now it's tradition, to wallow in our American sorrows, inhaling what English media we may discover.

I find the gym situation highly amusing. The AUC is a remarkably well-equipped in regards to gyms, with four different gyms on different parts of the campus. I typically find myself at the dormitory gym. It is however, the average, non-American work out area you find throughout the, well, non-American world, with four walls of mirrors, hardwood floor, surround sound speaker systems, and a very simple television. Instead of heart pounding, in the grind action which flows with your after school acitivities, as the Y in Hanover is, which many of you have membership at, this gym is a surreal warp. For example, this evening. Hassan, the gym supervisor, is the midst of a wrenching argument with his Russian girlfriend standing, well, right beside him as three others and myself observe through the mirrors. I am on the treadmill (elliptical machines aren't widespread) and my iPod recharger still hasn't arrived by mail, so Nile FM 104.2 is blasting at the highest decibel level an Arabic song on the top 10. Then this song, which is number 1 right now in Egypt, I don't know about there, "Bang Bang" by Nancy Sinatra, from the Kill Bill soundtrack (great movie) comes on. Let's just say, here are the lyrics:

I was five and he was six
We rode on horses made of sticks
He wore black and I wore white
He would always win the fight
Bang bang, he shot me down
Bang bang, I hit the ground
Bang bang, that awful sound
Bang bang, my baby shot me down.

Seasons came and changed the time
When I grew up, I called him mine
He would always laugh and say
"Remember when we used to play?"

Bang bang, I shot you down
Bang bang, you hit the ground
Bang bang, that awful sound
Bang bang, I used to shoot you down.

Music played, and people sang
Just for me, the church bells rang.

Now he's gone, I don't know why
And till this day, sometimes I cry
He didn't even say goodbye
He didn't take the time to lie.

Bang bang, he shot me down
Bang bang, I hit the ground
Bang bang, that awful sound
Bang bang, my baby shot me down...

And a woman in a full burka, not a hijab, a burka, walks in. I don't know why. But she just sits down at one of the chairs. Hassan's bickering continues. Drenched in sweat I get off the treadmill, standing there. This curly blonded haired guy glances over at me through the mirror with a dreadul look in his eyes as we connect for ten seconds. A look of sheer fright.

I got the hell out of there as fast as I could. I feel I am dreaming sometimes here.

Workouts are bizarre events you never do forget when traveling. I recall every single workout in the basement of the Great Southern in Galway for a week one summer. Ireland was damned with rain for nearly the entire week, and I was alone in this gym. Or those of the Seven Hills, Ohio Marriott during Christmas visiting relatives. Or the mixed and matched mess of a gym of the Holiday Inn in outside Trieste. I don't know what I am saying, but it's an routine of home life which transcends location, but manifests itself in unforgettable ways.

But working out is an integral aspect the Cairo routine now. Staying "healthy" here is a paradoxical adventure. Let's begin by saying when you blow your nose is Cairo, which is often for most, the mucus produced in your tissue is black and sooty. But we all must be walking six or more miles a day, in sweltering heat, which is great exercise. But food is tricky, with many resorting to Pizza Hut delivery, and others going to street vendors to find themselves vomitting for a week. There is a middle ground of going to the market, preparing your own food, but it's much more time consuming. But an adventure no less.

All an adventure.

4 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Sasha-
I can imagine that those Williams' sinuses are responding well to the Cairo air quality. Sounds like you are having a great adventure. I am enjoying your journey. I admire you. I think I would have had claustrophobia crawling through the tunnels. What an interesting story about how the pyramids were built. Why is that not a commonly told story? From the sublime to the ridiculous --Kill Bill was way too violent for me. It was one of only two movies I have ever had to stop watching, the other being Reservoir Dogs. Be Well.
Aunt Steph

15/6/05 03:34  
Blogger Sasha said...

Hey Steph!

Oh yes, the Williams sinuses. Fortunately, I have yet to visit the AUC clinic with an upper respitory problem, as most everyone has.

I am having a wonderful time. Simply getting off the plane in Cairo met all "expectations" and I love this city. The tunnels...not for the claustrophobic. There is a giant sign outside warning those with asthma, back problems, heart problems, those who are pregnant, claustrophic, or not entirely positive they want to do this against going in.

I have no clue why the simplicity of the construction of the pyramids is never explicated as it should be. Huge commercial revenue? Uncertainty? Like those Bermuda Triangle shows...clearly it doesn't exist, but we like living in fantastical imaginings sometimes.
Kill Bill was extraordinarily violent. I spent much of the film with my hands covering my eyes, but contorted plot and music and sheer absurdity of all that is Quentin Terentino somehow captured me. I know I'll never see Reservoir Dogs, don't worry.

Take care,
Sash

15/6/05 07:50  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Sasha,

Ahh, the wonders of "city snot" or "metropolis mucus". When I went to Madrid, I had to spend an inordinate amount of time in hot showers to clean it all out. But, enough of that and apologies to anyone who is not cursed with the Williams (or Powers, maybe) nasal woes.

I admire your ability to keep working out despite geographic change. It is one of those routines that can be comforting when every other second of severy day, you are bombarded with new stimuli.

How many hours a day are you in class? Is there much work out of the actual class hours? The teacher in me wonders if your program relies heavily on the wonders of the "real" education you get simply by existing in another country.

Thank you for keeping up with your blog. It is proving to be a nice break in the monotony of house-arrrest. (How did Martha Stewart cope for all those months?)

Salam (I think that might just be "hello" but you get the idea)

-Jen

16/6/05 14:08  
Blogger Sasha said...

Hey Jen,

I am in class Sunday through Thursday, with classes from 9am to roughly 4pm. Sundays we have lectures from local writers, and Monday and Wednesday are our elective courses in the afternoon. Mine is Quranic Readings, and although we technically can't read the Arabic version, and we are working with English translations and numerous source supplements, the objective in this is to gain exposure to differing interpretations, and hopefully comprehend more classical Arabic by summer's end.

I am in the purely MSA track, while others are enrolled in a blend of MSA and Egyptian Colloquial Arabic (ECA). The dual track, as many have found, is best with prior Arabic exposure. But, I've been learning so much "amea" or colloquial on the street, and during class anyway, I am fine with straight-up MSA, or "fausrah." It's interesting to look at the variations in Arabic knowledge here---in regards to those with Arab lineage, unlike anything I've seen, some people were raised speaking ECA in the home in the states, but can't write, read, or barely comprehend MSA. Others, can read and write classically, but can't speak, at all. The leap between speaking and written work is huge, and with ECA, this isn't that unusual as a cultural norm, as the literacy rate in Egypt stands at 51.6%.

So, around 5 1/2-6 class hours, then lots of studying at night. And since there are about 80 in the ALI program, with varying degrees proficiency, mixed study groups often form, which is very helpful.

We have two texts, and CD's. These are of course MSA resources, so, we are somewhat more detached from real life education than people taking the MSA/ECA blend, who can walk out into the street after class and actually experiment with the conversational material they just learned. That said, MSA students learn off MSA/ECA students on the shuttle, and going out and stuff. And most Egyptians can (not always though) understand, get the vibe of MSA. And, we have access to myriad TV programs and papers, in addition to reading off signs. So, the environment is a significant factor, but, the program is grounded in traditional teaching.

Ah, Martha Stewart. There's a name I haven't had to hear in two weeks. Wasn't there some controversy as to the number of hours she was actually spending outside of the house which was in violation of parole lately? I am so glad Michael Jackson is over with, there were cheers Tuesday morning before the TV. Not about the verdict, but the fact legitimate news may start getting covered again.

How many days?

Take care,
Sash

16/6/05 15:48  

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