Provocateur au chocolat
For a conservative Muslim nation, ice cream advertisements present a comical and contradictory commercial sentiment. Every American or European manufacturer possesses their own cast of models striking risque poses with accompanying text transgressing PG-13.
Today our lecture was provided by a member of the Shura council within the Egyptian Congress, by the name of Muhammed Mustafa Kamel, a modern and brazen, Johns Hopkins educated, veritable pariah in Egyptian politics. What I found most interesting were the invisible barriers of personal opinion and perspective predetermined by a government who could easily have him impeached in the blink of an eye, as they have done with so many others. He was however oddly emphatic in stating Mubarek is at the core of all foreign policy, with side-tasks delegated to his closed associates.
Other interesting points included his belief in Egypt's role as the leader of the Arab world, due to its unparalleled homogeny (basically Sunni, sole nation-state status), the fact Egypt is a player in the Arab world, the Muslim world, the Mediterranean community and EU with whom a free trade settlement will be attained by 2010. Additionally, a fact which had become ridden with dust in the back of my brain, was project "Bright Star." Bright Star is a war game held every two years somewhere in Western Egypt in which US troops hold an intensive military training venture, one which many have stated was the seminal force in "success" in the Iraq wars. And, the US provides Egypt with 1.2 billion USD in military aid alone each year, and yet nobody is certain of Egypt's WMD capabilities because Egypt refuses to disclose them until Israel signs the nuclear non-proliferation treaty. When you give your kid lunch money, you have to make sure it isn't going toward candy bars, clear? The US has however struck an intriguing deal with Egypt along the lines of the "Qualified Industrial Zone Agreement" in which any joint Egyptian and Israeli project or manufacture with an Israeli involvement of over 12% (I'd love to know how that number was widdled out) is exempt from taxes or tariffs in the States and other agreed upon nations. And lastly, during our Q&A session, a few people were eager to pummel him with interrogating inquiries into the upcoming election, asking if Mubarek would receive a dictator's vote in the high 90's...Kamel reiterated these would be fair and democratic elections, but any new candidate would be hard-pressed to beat the incumbent, as his experience trumps all corruption.
And another point of interest--it appears all of the Mubarek murals and signs around Tahrir Square have been removed. The once omnipresent image was replaced with different ads before Condi came to town, and the remaining have since been yanked.
3 Comments:
Sasha---after reading this wonderful first person look inside Egyptian politics, I wondered again how Egypt is viewed within the Arab community. Beyond the lunatic fringe, what does the average Jordanian, Syrian, Iraqi, Saudi, etc. think about their ties to the Great Satan I and Great Satan II.
PS: Mubarek better be wary, the disappearing billboards are the first signs of downfall. Just ask Mao.
Hi Sash,
The title of your last posting prompts me to ask if you have developed a "local favorite" food wise? Is there anything that you will crave when you get home? (When I first met Bernadine she had just returned from a year in Belgium. She and another floor mate of mine used to talk a lot about Nutella). Is there an Egyptian equilvalent? Hummus and falafel perhaps?
On a more serious note, do you find that people are willing to speak candidly about their government? It amazes me that a central government can exert such control over such a large population. I guess there are enough examples in history to prove that it can happen: over and over again.
What else? The Red Sox have won 9 in a row, but with internet and CNN, you probably knew that.
Take care. Post when you can.
-Jen
Hey guys,
Local favorite...hmm...I think zataar on feteer, which I can't reiterate enough, is the best. Lentils...okay. Unfortunately, most of us just end up down at the market buying yoghurt and bread and stuff for convenience sake.
Funny you should mention nutella. Lots of nutella around here. It's an oddly reassuring, international favorite. Hummus is very prevalent. The problem is, Egyptians assume foreigners aren't into their food because they themselves prefer Pizza Hut at this point, so the restaurant trend is swaying toward European and Asian cuisine.
People are in fact modestly open about discussing government. They support free elections, and yet they automatically state Mubarek is the best candidate, no matter what. And yet I've heard others state that voting is a waste of time, because in the past during local elections, guards and officials at the voting stations will flat out threaten voters, or tell them how pointless filling out a ballot is, since they'll just shred it up and few minutes later. It's disheartening, and therefore they feel helpless. But mildly content, because what they do have is cherished, and requesting more aid or economic growth will result in the revocation of what rights they do have. So, I guess above all, there is a state of fear Mubarek has his citizens under. But a very carefully orchestrated one which is not covered in the media due to censorship, and unknown in the West, but discussed in universities and behind closed doors.
Red Sox on a winning streak? I totally forgot about them. Only the FA cup and qualifiers on around here.
And Great Satan II...Israel? From what Kamel discussed, he stated most Egyptians are supportive of an Israeli state and peaceful negotiations, primarily for economic reasons beneficial to themselves with renewed trade and ventures. Mubarek has never visited Israel, and refuses to, but from what public opinion has demostrated, Egyptians wouldn't mind. Kamel's opening joke was that across the Arab world America has officially become "the 23 Arab country." And this is upsetting to many Middle Easterners, as any relations between a single Arab country and the US, are automatically trilateral due to Israel. There are no straight up bilateral negotiations, very constraining for them.
Another weird thing--Kamel stated if you walked out into Cairo and began asking Egyptians the difference between a Sunni and Shiite Muslim, they wouldn't know they answer. I don't know if I believe this. But I think it hinged on his greater belief in unification at this point, and the fact religious minorities are nearly non-existent here.
More questions always welcome.
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