That glorious cacophony

Calm of the gauntlet. Honk. Slam. Scream. Wail.

See, I had a "bit" of a situation today departing the AUC for the DHL offices in Garden City, where I would finally be able to receive my package. I hop in the cab, with friend Heather in tow, and, three minutes later, with the driver swinging a corner, he hits someone. An Egyptian guy maybe in his mid-thirties walking with another guy is plowed by the front of the cab and hits the pavement. And, I'm nonchalantly flipping through a newspaper in the backseat with Heather, only to be roused by the slam of brakes and a cry. Then, the "oh my god" sets in. We're on a fairly busy street, and I figure I either sit tight, or hop onto the sidewalk and leave the scene. Police (obviously only yards away anyway) come, the driver springs out, and of course, we have NO IDEA what's going on as a throng of guys encircle the wounded party and are screaming at one another. Some start shouting "insurance money" (presumably to us) in the direction of the cab. But the driver acts in our defense, and we sit for another five minutes, as the man hit gradually wobbles to his feet, but his back pant leg is torn open and he's gushing blood. I ask the driver if the guy's okay, if he needs help, is going to hospital, and so on and so forth. He shrugs "laa, laa" (no, no) and starts the ignition and we drive off. Alrighty. Driving in taxis is great fun here, zooming about, very dangerous indeed, but I never expected an accident.

And yet after greater research this afternoon, this is what the State Department offers:

"Driving in Egypt, a country with one of the highest incidences of road fatalities per miles driven in the world, is a challenge. Even seasoned residents of Cairo must use extraordinary care and situational awareness to navigate the hectic streets of the capital. Traffic rules appear to be routinely ignored by impatient drivers. Any visiting Americans thinking about driving in Cairo should carefully consider the options, take the utmost precautions, and drive defensively. Drivers should be prepared for unlit vehicles at night, few if any road markings, vehicles traveling at high rates of speed, vehicles traveling the wrong way on one-way streets, divided highways, and connecting ramps, and pedestrians constantly dodging in and out of traffic and a variety of animals. Most traffic lights in Cairo appear not to function, but rather are staffed by policemen who use subtle finger movements to indicate which cars may move. Pedestrians should also exercise extreme caution when traversing roadways, especially in high-volume/high-velocity streets like Cairo's Corniche, which follows the east bank of the Nile River. Motorists in Egypt should be especially cautious during the rare winter rains, which can cause extremely slippery road surfaces or localized flooding.

Options to avoid driving include ubiquitous, inexpensive, and relatively safe taxis. Travel outside of Cairo is safer because of the decreased intensity of the traffic, but unmarked roads, stray animals, and other hazards can pose a challenge, especially at night. Disabled vehicles without lights or reflectors are among the many hazards that can be encountered on highway travel lanes after dark. Embassy personnel in Egypt are prohibited from traveling outside Cairo on official business after sunset. Intercity roads are generally in good condition. Some roads, especially in the Sinai and southeastern part of the country, are off-limits to foreigners. Traffic warning signs should be respected. "