Illustrations of my sixth grade ancient history textbook. Living. Breathing.

Ta-da. Outside the pyramid of Khufu, this morning. The largest in the world. Khufu is the sole Wonder of the World still in existence of the seven. And unlike most monuments of significance, bigger in real life.

I barely squeezed this post through here, as blogger.com is undergoing maintenance, and error messages kept popping up. I have oodles of pyramid and Sphinx photos, and, after trial and error, it may be a couple of days. Blogger typically needs to run server checks, but, it's the weekend, I'll be very busy with classes beginning tomorrow.

So, everyone, have a great weekend!

And, in order to keep this page tight and sleek, I am setting the six most recent posts as the maximum for the main page. To access the others, just look to the left, and they can all be found under their respective week, or with hyperlinks under "Previous Posts."

"Gd, ths lnng s hrd" by Robert Lane Greene
A most interesting and comical article discovered by a very thoughtful commentator.

"I like to look for things no one else catches...

...and I hate the way nobody even looks at the road in old movies!"
from Amelie

Reason enough to look to the road.

And usually I divert excessive attention to minutia.

There are very few mosques in our neighborhood, constrasting with the higher concentrations in other parts of the city. But the muezzin's call is never too distant. It is amazing to think millions, upon millions, if not billions, of Muslims across the Middle East (provided within the same time zone, I believe) turn to Makkah (I have a thing about Anglicized words) at the same exact time each and every week. I can't conjure a comparable religious act. Perhaps I'm bias. But a make-shift mosque formed upon the corner of Muhammed al-Marshaali and al-Bitar after noon. I didn't feel comfortable photographing them during prayer. People from around the area migrated towards the carpets gradually.

But as I was initially walking into the area, I tripped over one of the carpets. An elderly man shouted at me. I could have cried. I had been trying to be careful, between the mats and traffic. But I trampled over their place of prayer. I profusely apologized in gestures and a little Arabic, but the man shook his head. I don't want to imagine the impression I left upon him, "stupid American, masquerading, walking over our carpets."

This aside, I am always struck by the range of men, who will sit on street corners, in restaurants, even while on guard at the Egyptian Museum, with Qur'an, reading, singing, solemnly, it's very beautiful.

And a shout-out to Jackie on the quote. Serendipidity on how that fit.

And a fitting article I came across the morning.

On the Embassy Prowl

Swedish embassy, in possession of by far and away the most captivating architecture. Like a medieval fortress before the Nile, sandwiched between what "was" the Iraqi embassy on its left (which appears either blown up or "under construction") and the Hungarian embassy on its right, which resembles a Bermudan resort. Zamalek is loaded with embassies, the Croatian embassy is around here somewhere. And I found the Greater Cairo Library. Friday morning is superb walking time. I must be off, for Friday prayers. Nearly noon.

Zataar

Breakfast at Cafe Tabasco. Particular intrigue in the word tabasco, which claims both this Zamalek cafe, and a nightclub in Maydan Amman. Here's zataar, with feteer. I get the two words mixed up. It came wrapped at Tabasco, flat like a pizza at Cafe Arabica. But it's everywhere. And inexpensive and delicious. A long and languorous morning was spent enjoying this, and an espresso, with an English paper. It was very quiet, Fridays are always quiet.

"When you have once seen the glow of happiness on the face of a beloved person...

...you know that a man can have no vocation but to awaken that light on the faces surrounding him. In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer."
Albert Camus

He had widest of terrifingly mystified brown eyes. He wasn't begging. Wasn't harassing. He found my camera most fascinating. That was all. He strangely knew some English, finding it strange I spoke some Arabic. His wide grin, bright white teeth were infectious as he staggered about the square, meeting with some other boys. Happy. I wondered if he went to school. Wondered where his family was. Why he was alone. Where he was going. But none of this seemed to matter. And I realized I was perhaps the same in his eyes. I couldn't have explained it, nor could he. Less needs explaining here under the Egyptian sun. Everyday here is warm, sunny. Checking the forecast is pointless, it's simply always radiating. Which may be more uplifting than I would have professed.

One of my professors once dismissed the probability of taking photos around deeply religious Muslims. Images are powerful. You will never, ever find a painting, sculpture, or any visual representation of Muhammed. Ever. It's a terrible sacrilege. Are we dissatisfied with what we see around us? Striving for the security of permanency delivered by images? I don't know. But walking around with my camera has made me question this. Or perhaps I always have been. Like the Chinese and Japanese tourists one often sees, gathered around famous buildings or monuments, snapping away with their cameras, hardly ever removing their eye from the lens piece to see where they actually are. Is this now cultural? Americans can be this way. As tourists. But I now make an effort to leave my camera in the dorm. See what's around me without the obstructive force. But I have daily routine here now anyway. There's philosophical banter.

Much like at home, and I usually don't find myself walking the halls at school taking pictures. I used to take photos on the shuttle bus to campus. Now it's one of my favorite times of the day, blazing through the anarchy which is Cairo rush hour (Cairo's population tops 22 million between 9 and 5) with Arab pop blasting and a welcomed breeze drifting off the Nile. It's strange to criss-cross the Nile on my "commute" now each morning. It's really rather unexciting, to be perfectly honest. And brown. Sewage still finds its way into the Nile, where drinking water and whatnot is drawn. Which, since the Egyptians purify with chlorine, is not the most potable, particularly for Westerners. Shower water has an oddly "farm animal" odor.

Hmmm...not much today. I am now experimenting with Egyptian food, which is awesome. My vegan ways may not survive here. I absolutely will not eat meat, fish or poultry. Absolutely not. Nor will you find me drinking bovine milk, or scrambling eggs soon. However, if something happens to contain dairy, that's fine at this point.

A most unenthralling of days for the grounded narrative. Another orientation, and tour later this afternoon. I met another interesting person, Ally. Ally just spent the last year living with a host family in Istanbul, and is studying Arabic for the first time too here at the AUC. She is the nearest I've found to a teenager, as she graduated from high school last year, took her gap year in Turkey and is attending Sarah Lawrence in the fall. We got lost together in the Falaki building leaving the "reception" lunch after orientation. Really lost. Stuck in elevators, back hallways and stairwells lost.

Down in the Souk

Khan al-Khalili, the medieval souk. I arrived early, before shops opened. This way, I could scope the area out. It seemed worlds away from Zamelek, or Maydan Tahrir. Mosques inhabit much of the surrounding area, and at the end of the street is al-Azhar, which I definitely plan on spending a day in later on. Women and men were more conservatively dress here than anywhere else in the city, and with this symbolic religiosity, I almost felt I was receiving more dignified respect here than I would elsewhere. I didn't buy anything. Somewhat pathetic, but, even though it's a tourist hotspot, many of the wares are simply daily purchases for lower class Egyptians. Underwear. Bread. Baby clothing. The pace became more frenetic upon leaving, but I shall probably be back.

An oddly festive cheer down in Islamic Cairo in the early morning.

I swear I am not trying to enter the Arab League building, honest

As I believe I said in a comment yesterday, I was going to go the Egyptian Museum. Alas, that didn't happen Monday afternoon, but rather today. As I begin to better understand how Cairo time functions, one must always factor in cushion time, so, by the time I arrived at the Museum (2:30) they were no longer admitting people. After 40 minutes I zigging and zagging through Tahrir Square, that was fine with me (I finally figured out today there is an underground walkway...that explains a lot). I went right when the doors opened, this morning (the absolute best time to go if anyone does), bought my ticket (4.50 USD) and went on in.

Wow. The building itself, while massive, may not be bigger than the MFA. But, in regards to their collection, it is literally wall to wall crammed with pieces. Packed. Running into 3000 year old hieroglyphic tablets left and right. Items seeingly strewn about. Uncertainty as to whether the German crane and bags of cement indicate a closed off area. Even though one may commend the Egyptian government for retrieving all that the British, French and Germans "stole" during the last 50 years, you have to wonder if perhaps it wasn't a bad thing for them to be in possession of these pieces. There are no sensor alarms. Except for Tutankhamen, no air sensitive rooms or encasings. There is even grafitti on pieces, like penned-in names and hearts on King Amenophis III and wife Tyi. The building is somewhat delapitated. But it is, nonetheless, spectacular. Its sheer girth, and dulled magnificence alone are a sight to behold. But I am not certain the Egyptian government is putting forth all they could in maintaining it. In theory, the very notion of a palace of pagan antiquities right off a very Arab Tahrir Square clashes, as today's Cairenes have no relation whatsoever to the individuals of ancient Egypt (even genetically). But, I would say, no matter how this building develops in the future, it is something you should see, I dunno, before you die. That was my morning adventure.

Then back to the huge AUC clinic to get a pseudo-physical for the usage of the AUC gyms from Dr. Hanna, and was cleared to go, except I need passport size photos. ID is essential, everywhere, even shopping malls. I have an ID for the school/library, and one for the gym, and then the dormitories as of tonight. There are a set of shops opposite the Nile I was attempting to get into, with this "checkpoint" and people being IDed, and the Arab League building happens to be next door, so I went to one guard and asked him if the line was for the Arab League. It wasn't. He was made highly suspicious however of my questioning. I displayed my card, he began pointing to what I now know to be the Arab League building, shaking his head, I tried explaining all I wanted to do was go into the shops. He began directing another guard over, with an Arab League badge. I finally connected with him, and it was resolved. And then I got a new set of pictures at the Kodak store down the street.

I missed 1:30 bus. Went back to the Greek campus. The American professors teaching here are something out of early 20th century British colonies. In light blue seersucker suits, khaki brimmed hats, and hankerchiefs they are constantly dabbing their foreheads with. The women fit into a prototype too, far more progressive and modern dressed in linens, Tevas, scarves.

Finding someone to take a picture of you is far harder than it seems. Other than the "stretch your arm as far as it goes and click towards you method," there isn't much else. Don't want to appear a tourist either. Another key to Cairo is, no matter how lost, petrified or confused, always appear to know exactly what you are doing and where you are going. Always. People in ALI primarily fly solo wherever they go, whatever they do. "Friendships" are per chance, we're on the same bus right now, waiting in the same line, occasions. I've never seen anyone together in fact. It's kind of bizarre how everyone disperses. The bars at the Marriott and Hilton are popular at night however with one prefabricated clique in particular (UC Berkeley has been getting drunk nightly). The Marriott is where it's at if you don't want to "be" in Cairo anymore. They have a place "Roy's Pancake House" a few people now swear by. Weird, again.

Reflectively here.

Don't you point your toe at me

Morning bus ride to the campus for registration. I cruised around Zamalek early, there are always clusters of people around, Cairo is definitely a 24-hour a day city, many stores open at 7am, and don't close until 10pm, with markets open around the clock. I try to say "Sa baah al-khair" to everyone I pass, or at least provide a smile. Some reciprocate, others don't. I've heard other students complaining about the erratic friendliness of Egyptians, but from what I've seen, you need to reach out to them. Sure, there are the incessant whistles, catcalls and kissy kissy cab drivers haranging Western women, but there is nothing you can do about it. It's not malicious, just, I don't know what it is, but there is the fascination and assumption, as one can read in any guide book, that Western women come to Egypt to have sex. Why? How we dress, our independence, it's beyond me. It's a rite of passage if you will. In addition to getting sick. A lot of people have gotten sick already, with the typical "Mummy Tummy," or head colds. I haven't, but those who did ate what they knew they shouldn't have. I think I can escape it. And all us female ALI "AUCians" have resigned ourselves to our "desert storm paratrooper" wardrobes. You can walk outside in a teeshirt, but you'll be sorry you did.

Cairo is a fabulous city. With some street smarts and an understanding of the culture, its fabulousness only serves to be amplified. It may take a good six minutes to cross a street, the pollution is awful, and armed Egyptian military guards who stand in packs of three along every single street in little huts may be intimidating, but beyond this, the rewards of being here far outweigh initial confusion.

Registration was this morning in Oriental Hall. It was cool to see everyone finally gathered, and most arrived last night. Everyone is exceedingly friendly and accomplished. Most are IR majors or in international law, others are into Middle Eastern studies, and it's about 65/30 grad school/undergrad, with another 5% of older people, and me. There is also a bloc of about ten people sponsored by the Australian Ministry of Defense (I saw their names on a spreadsheet behind a desk, probably shouldn't have) and people sponsored by the EU. I met a guy this morning, Ali, an Iranian-American who is a grad student at Vanderbilt, and just spent a month touring about the Gulf States, and has been here in Cairo two weeks, with many adventures to tell of. There is also Eyad, the ringleader of the Yale clique I've been sucked into. I'm going out for coffee Wednesday with the Yale clique, feeling very special.

I have the next couple days free with some AUC registration responsibilities, and there is a free trip out to Giza and the pyramids, and of Coptic and Islamic Cairo Saturday I am going to do. June 16 through 18 is the trip to Alexandria, and the next two months are filled with trips and activities, much to do. In Alexandria we'll get to see the new Bibliotheca Alexandria, a massive revival of the ancient library.

And if you want to live like a king, come to Egypt. The exchange rate rocks. 17 cents to the Egyptian pound, and for example, 2L bottle of water is .80 piasters (Egyptian cents), so that's 13 odd American cents. And when I went grocery shopping, I thought I bought a ton of stuff, and I did, but it was just 66 pounds, $11.22. And cabs are dirt cheap too. I tried the debit card at the HSBC and it worked fine too, but I didn't even need money, and probably won't. You can't find everything here, but I need to explore more (nail clippers anyone? actually, I don't want to be receiving 14 nail clippers in the mail next week, I'll find some...).

Four legs and furry

First dog sighting. He was with two others, hanging about this afternoon. Way more cats here though.

Misadventures in capitalism

Obviously...

My new favorite American-style supermarket. Additionally, there is the "Alfa" chain I visited earlier this afternoon, which is like a Wal-Mart, complete with clothing, music, DVD's and exercise equipment. There's also a "Sedanoui" which is a smaller scale market closest to the dorms, and is the cheapest of the three. All have unique factors of appeal. I've been operating off of bateenban sada (whole wheat bread), diet Sprite, Baraka water, Jif peanut butter and imported apples. Soy milk doesn't appear to have made it here. All three markets were also comprised of about 3/4 Westerners. Zamalek is the wealthy isle of expats and diplomats. It's quaint, but detached.

Sneak Preview

On the AUC campus. Here is only a snapshot of a much bigger, but still very cozy campus with elaborate garden and fountains. It's really very beautiful, and it is an oasis in Cairo, but like I said earlier, I like the thump-thump bustle of the city, there's this inexplicable buzz. Check-in and orientation are this week, today was an opportunity to get a look at the campus, familiarize myself with the surrounding area.

Good morning Mr. Mubarak

This is on the bus ride to the campus. His ubiquity is only matched by the inordinate youth applied to his visage on these murals, he's a lot older on TV......

How could you miss him?

Ambling

Early morning adventure after breakfast...side alley (this was the only pocket I found which appeared out of place with the rest of Zamalek, where the dorms are). Zamalek is littered with BMW's and stores, within a one block radius there is a Quicksilver (the surfing/skating company) store, a Nike outlet, and a Kipling store (bright bags, little monkey key chains?), so, even second-tier American brands have made an entrance it seems.

Cheap Thrills

Here's the slacker way to go about your first breakfast in Cairo. It was only about 6:30 this morning, and it was the first place which caught my eye, this place being "Saint Cinnamon," which already contained a half dozen or so Westerners. But, it provided an opportunity to use some Arabic, review my map, and people watch. Tomorrow morning I'll find a real cafe. This one even had Wifi, I'm think that disqualifies it from being a "real cafe."

Zipping into Zamalek

Holy cow. 20 hours later, and I am here. Whoa.

So, I am officially in Cairo. It's about 5:30, and in fact, after arriving around 2 this afternoon, not that hot. I was expecting 110 degrees, which it may be, but the dryness counteracts any sense of traditional "heat."

After landing, I proceeded through customs, only to encounter a most unusual system of clearing passports which consisted of handing your passport over, having it stamped, and then having the guard nod his head slipping the passport into this room behind him. Three more people were to pass through, and the two people already waiting received their passports after the others were processed. So, this system of exchanging passports on every third person. There is some highly intelligent, complex security rationale behind it, I hope.

Following this, I retrieved my bag, and then realized the likelihood of my finding the AUC taxi driver was dramatically reduced since we were delayed in Rome for over an hour, and he may have left with others. I found another taxi driver, or, rather he found me. He was incredibly kind, or incredibly skilled in soliciting wary Americans. I hopped in, and on the way out, the Egyptian police stopped us, tell me to roll the back window down, and sign my name in this book which looks oddly like one at a wedding reception or something. Just to sign my name.

During the 45 minute ride into the downtown, it was just amazing. It's difficult to put my finger on, but the initial long strips of highway lined by palm trees and billboards for Chili's (Egypt has Chili's, go figure) and ice cream bars, followed by the Mario Kart action of 30 year old Trebants with brightly colored flags maneuvering in and out of traffic, and then just the vibrant energy getting off the highway and into the neighborhoods was stunning. This great bustle I've never seen before. Most European cities now appear on life support in relation to this.

After reaching the dormitories, greeting the heavy security force, I was warmly, very warmly welcomed by the receptionists who bore welcome gifts. In the lobby adjacent there is a massive television, and then the entrance to a beautiful courtyard. I'll post the pictures soon. My dorm is like a palace. And everyone is very, very helpful here.

I am not really jet-lagged right now, and I never really do get jet-lagged come to think of it, regardless of how many timezones I criss-cross. I will say, however, I do feel a little spaced out...it's as though I am either in a time warp, contorting backward either 30 or a thousand years depending on where I am standing or walking. But that's not really it either. I don't know what it is. No matter how many countries I visit, how many flights I board, there is still something just a little bit amazing about getting on a plane and then getting off in a totally new world in a matter of hours. This was all right here all along. Egypt. Waiting?

Alright, I am going to go to the bookshop now...maybe find some dinner.